In the remote valleys of western Mongolia, near the snow-capped Altai mountains, lies a world where people are outnumbered by grazing horses, sheep, and yaks. Here, I encountered Khaiyr Galym, a Kazakh eagle hunter, who welcomed me into his nomadic life. Despite the language barrier, Khaiyr’s warm smile and traditional cowboy outfit made me feel at home. His wife, Shynat, served us milky tea and aaruul, a salty cheese, while our English-speaking guide, Shokhan, bridged the communication gap.
Living with Khaiyr’s family in their yurt, a traditional round tent, provided a glimpse into the nomadic shepherd lifestyle. Khaiyr practices berkutchi, the art of hunting with golden eagles, a tradition that has dwindled over time. With only about 250 eagle hunters left in Mongolia, Khaiyr cherishes this heritage, hoping to pass it on to his children. His 10-year-old son, Seruen, already an expert horseman, and his teenage daughter, Arujon, showed me the daily rhythms of their nomadic existence.
Each day in Mongolia fell into a peaceful routine, riding out with Khaiyr and his family, accompanied by their eagle, Tas Tulek. The bond between Khaiyr and his bird was palpable, a relationship nurtured from the eagle’s infancy. Watching them work together in harmony was a testament to the deep connection between man and nature. In the evenings, as the sun set behind the hills, I found solace by the Sagsai river, observing the family’s horses drinking from its waters.
Nomadic families like Khaiyr’s move three to four times a year, following the changing seasons in search of better grazing lands. Their yurt, adorned with colorful carpets and horse-riding contest medals, symbolized the simplicity and warmth of their home. As I left their abode, I felt grateful for the brief but enriching experience of being part of their world.
To reach the Altai mountains, travelers can fly to Olgii, the regional hub, three hours from Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia’s capital. The journey to this remote and picturesque location offers a unique opportunity to immerse oneself in the vanishing traditions of the Kazakh eagle hunters. As the world evolves, preserving such cultural legacies becomes crucial for understanding and appreciating the rich tapestry of human heritage.
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